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    Day 1.305 – I’d Be Damned! (UK)

    I’d be damned!

    I sense something unusual when I look out my window this morning. Flags are not moving, my Plexiglas window doesn’t rattle, and there’s no trash flying around the streets below me. The wind has died. I’d stopped believing it could happen. Immediately the logistic voice in me starts thinking – go, Zülle, just go! – and for a moment, I am sure that I’ll leave Laayoune today (going north). I suspect the moon – which is just about full now – of playing a part in this mystery.

    I go out and get hold of orange juice and cold milk for my muesli, considering, but choose
    to stay another day, hoping this won’t be the only calm morning (and the wind wakes up in the afternoon, anyway).

    Habib, the young hotel guy (20), offers me in for a tea-with-bread-and-olive-ceremony as soon as I get back from my walk around the western part of Laayoune. I see no excuse, and although Habib speak little French (but still more than me), we are able to have a conversation, about his 11! siblings which he informs me is quite normal for a berber family like his.

    Habib is a good guy. When later today I’m relaxing on the hotel roof under the sun, with Rufus Wainwright in my ear and 1 kg of clementines on the way down in my stomach, he comes up and says it’s tajine time amd that he wants to share it with me. It is berber hospitality as I remember it from 2005 – and at only 4 USD a night here at the Hotel Marhaba – incl. lunch and tea, social time and private peace (along with running water and electricity non-stop, which was lacking in parts of West Africa) – I can hardly afford not staying a little longer.

    On this day..


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