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    Day 1.306 – To Fight Against Gods (UK)

    Laayoune (W.S.) -> Tarfaya (MA)
    Distance (km) : 62
    Time on bike : 4h 42m
    Brutto time: 08.45 – 15.45
    Avg : 13.1! km/h
    Max.speed: 36.5
    Total (km) : 57.004
    Altitude: 2 m
    Difficulty: 4

    I think it was the Romans (or was it the Greeks?) who invented the proverbial “against the gods even fools struggle in vain”. If they had not come up with it, I certainly would have come up with something similar here in Northwest Africa. Unfortunately, the weather gods have a bad eye for me today again as I leave Laayoune. It seems infinitely foolish to battle against the wind. I struggle and fight on the small chain ring in the bloody headwind, and although I have just had 3 days of rest in Laayoune, and is charged on all accounts, the wind soon blows it all away into the grim desert. I’m down. The idea of an entire day of tailwind seems utopian, and it seems like I no longer remember the feeling of tailwind (and it’s not the only feeling you hardly remember, whispers my inner Silver Monk).

    My thoughts fly away again, to the west, into the Atlantic, 100 km off the coast to the Canary Islands, where I spent some beautiful weeks with Koga on Tenerife – an island I know faily well by now! – nearly 4 years ago. See photo album from Tenerife here.

    The sand is hitting me straight in the face. The wind hits me face-on, my face wrought in tragic looks, as if I was witnessing a horrific tale of biblical dimensions. The only encouragement is when trucks from behind overtake me and for 5 seconds leave me in the slipstream, with the turbulent and confused winds (including sandblasting). It is the most depressing kilometers, I have cycled.

    In the village Tah I cross the officially recognized border into Morocco, but the Moroccans haven’t made a big fuzz about, just setting up another military check post.

    I am now back where it all started, with the bike, in Morocco 4 years ago, a mere week after I had acquired the academic title Cand. Scient. Anth. at Copenhagen University.

    In Tarfaya I find a guesthouse – a maison d’Hôte – where I (despite fatigue) haggle down the price of an apartment (!) from 200 to 100 dirhams (13 USD). I have an entire apartment, with cable-TV room, bedroom, bathroom, etc., all full of fluffy pillows, it’s super clean, very comfortable – and mine! It is fantastic value-for-money – especially when a mad diarrhea strikes back…

    On this day..


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